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What is Tequila?

An introduction to the spirit of the agave.

"Tequila is Mexico," said Carmelita Roman, widow of the late tequila producer Jesus Lopez Roman in an interview after her husband's murder. "It's the only product that identifies us as a culture."

Agave PlantNo other drink is surrounded by as many stories, myths, legends and lore as tequila and its companion, mezcal. They transcend simple definition by reaching into the heart of Mexico, past and present. The turbulent history of Mexico is paralleled in the stories of tequila and mezcal. One cannot fully appreciate Mexico without some understanding of tequila's place In its history and culture. Tequila is an alcoholic drink made in the arid highlands of central Mexico, from fermented and distilled sap of the agave (also called a maguey), an indigenous plant (a succulent, not a cactus). Archeologists say the agave has been cultivated for at least 9,000 years. 'Tequila wine' was first made by the Conquistadors, who distilled a native drink called pulque into a stronger spirit. In the 400 years following the Conquest, tequila has become an icon of Mexican nationality, pride and culture, recognized worldwide. Today, most of it is made in Jalisco state around the town of Tequila.

Mezcal is a related drink and is the older form of the name for tequila as well. The name for the product made in Jalisco state was adopted in the late 19th century. Technically, all tequilas are mezcals, which were also known as mezcal wines and mezcal brandies before the name tequila became common. Today they are distinct products, differentiated by production process and taste, much the same way rye whisky and Scotch whisky differ. Most mezcal is made in Oaxaca state today, although some (mostly regional and not for export) is also made in Guerrero, Zacatecas, and other states. Is made from distilled sap from hearts (piflas) of the agave or maguey (pr. 'mah-gay') plant. This plant is actually related to the lily and amaryllis (it has its own genus, Agave). It is known as a succulent and, although it shares a common habitat with many cacti, it is not one itself and has a different life cycle. A mature agave has leaves 5-8 feet tall, and is 7-12 feet in diameter. It has a lifespan of 8-15 years, depending on species, growing conditions and climate. The name agave comes from the Greek word for 'noble.' There are 136 species of agave in Mexico, of which the blue agave - agave tequilana weber azul - is the only one allowed for use in tequila production. Several different species of agave are allowed for use in mezcal, including a rare wild species, tabala. Other agave plants are used for the production of various regional drinks like sotol, raicilla, bacanora and pulque. Agave has been cultivated on this continent for at least 9,000 years.

No Mexican alcoholic drink is made from cactus. However, cactus is used in some fruit drinks, salads and other food items. In order to preserve tequila's integrity and protect their national treasure, the Mexican government formulated NORMAS in the 1970s to establish and govern tequila standards of production. By law, tequila must meet the following
criteria:

  • it must be made from 100 percent natural ingredients
  • it must be produced with no less than 38 percent alcohol by bolum (ASV)
  • it must be made from blue agave grown and harvested only in the Mexican states of Jalisco, Guanajuato, Mlchoacan, Nayarit or Tamaulipas
  • the fermented agave juice must be distilled twice and the finished product must result from the agave juice processing
  • the final product must be produced form no less than 51 percent reduced sugars from the blue agave
  • it must be labeled with 'hecho en Mexico' (made In Mexico), 'NOM' (Norma Official Mexicana), the producer's four digit registration and Identification number and the tequila's age (resposado, Ai'iejo, blanco, oro).

The making of tequila: from blue agave to golden liquid.

Tequila is not made from the typical grains or fruits most alcoholic beverages are made from. It is distilled from the steam-cooked pina (large pineapple-shaped heart) of the blue agave plant. A mature pina can weigh anywhere from 80 to 300 pounds.

Jimadors, the workers who harvest agaves, are experts in blue agave cultivation. The Jimadors use tools such as a coa (a steel-tipped hoe) to unroot the blue agave plant from the unique lava red soil, and a machete to cut the spiny leaves from the body of the plant. About 15 pounds of pina produce 1 liter of 100% agave Tequila. Agaves grown outside the distillery undergo a rigorous process that ensures the maturity, weight and quality of these in as meet the high standards of the distilleries. The piiias are steamed in stone ovens for about 24 - 36 hours at temperatures reaching 176°F - 203°F. Slow baking softens the fibers and prevents the agave from caramelizing, which adds darker and unique flavors to the juice and reduces the agave sugars.

Agave fibers tend to reabsorb much of the juice, so the fibers are washed in order to obtain the optimal amount of juice from each press. The result of the wash is called agua-mlel or honey water. Then, the piiias are milled and strained to extract the juices, which are mixed with natural spring water in large fermentation tanks, and yeast is added. The mosto is left to ferment anywhere from 1-12 days In tanks specially treated. The fermentation creates a liquid, then this liquid is distilled twice In pot stills. The first one takes 1 1/2-2 hours. The second distillation takes 3-4 hours. The three components of the second distillation are the cabeza (head), which has more alcohol and unwanted aldehydes, so it is discarded. The middle section is the corazon (heart), which Is saved for production, being the best part. The end section is sometimes recycled into the next distillation to make it more robust.

According to Mexican law, distilled tequila must be aged in oak barrels. The designations are blanco o plata (white or silver), oro (gold), reposado (rested) or anejos (aged). The passion for premium aged tequilas that look like brandies has led some distillers to age them longer in oak barrels to absorb the maximum coloring. Others simply add coloring to create the impression of age - which may also affect the flavor. The color of a tequila does not necessarily reflect either age or quality. After aging, the tequila Is rested and prepared for bottling.